The men's Fall collections this year have been stellar. It's been a long time since a season has been so well populated with unique, on-point and beautiful collections in the men's world that I am frankly in awe. A lot of the stuff I was talking about in terms of Pop-Fashion and Androgynous tailoring have been evident in bright coloring and loose tailoring. I've decided not to split these up by location this time around, as I believe the men's collections are less inclined to steer strongly towards their cultural origins (with the exception of Pitti in Milan, which is always decidedly Italian). So without further ado, here is the first batch of my favorite men's runway collections for fall 2015:
As you could have witnessed in my post on the Moschino Barbie
collection, I’m a huge kid at heart. So, it’s no surprise that the Toys R’ Us,
Lego inspired collection of this London duo was one of my favorites at LCM. The
coats in particular were absolutely amazing in primary color blocks bringing to
mind the build-a-blocks we all used to play with as kids. There was even
something Mondrian-like in the color usage and straight minimalist silhouettes.
Tailoring was majorly loose in the trousers, which is something we’ll
definitely be seeing a lot of during Fall. I’m gagging (in the colloquial sense
of being positively overwhelmed) and googling how to make Lego masks as we
speak!
Burberry definitely took a turn for the dark and mysterious
this season, and in my opinion it’s been long overdue. The boho looks that came
down the runway evoked a British Poet who’d just come back from a trip to
Southern Africa. As a person who lives in Britain, and is from Southern Africa; and I’m not saying I, specifically, inspired the collection, but I’ll leave that in
the hands of you lovely readers. Jokes aside, print matching is a trend that is
becoming more and more evident in menswear, and Bailey has it down to an art. Using
primary colours like red and blue he’s stuck to his strengths but pushed
himself in a darker and more luxurious direction, befitting the Burberry brand.
It seems like he’s perfectly sat upon his CEO throne with many more surprises
in store.
This is Derelicte done right (Zoolander reference; watch the
movie NOW if you haven’t please). Consequently, the collection is a political
statement done right (side-eye Chanel), with no huge signs proclaiming the
message, but it still being evident as day. Shannon playfully looked at the Poundland
persona of today, and putting together pieces taken from here, there and
everywhere else in order to put yourself together. Once again, primary colors
and loose tailoring were present, as were masks in the shape of actual plastic
bags on the Model’s heads. All in all, a strong and creative collection with an
even stronger message.
Eary completely plays to the OTT, pop-fashion wearing
Serbian side of me. Her collection inspired by modern artists such as Koons and
KAWS explodes with color to the point of almost making my brain hurt. Speaking
of brains, can we talk about the brain hats? Made via 3D printing, the skull
embroidered hats and sweaters may have seemed Eerie to some (I had to), but in my opinion they were mind-blowingly cool. The surgical theme was
evident not only in the exposed skeletons on the clothing, but even in the stitched
jeans. This paired with the quasi-candy skull makeup really showed that Eary
took her subject and ran with it, not taking any prisoners.
Finally, the first collection of the season! As you’ve
probably noticed if you read the “what I’m wearing” at the bottom of each of my
outfit posts, I wear a LOT of Topman. Why? They’re simply the most unique high
street retailer. It comes as no surprise then, that this collection was also
quite unique in its design. Mixing Americana, Bombay and British boy band
references, the collection stood out as different and well put together. It’s
difficult to make a collection that’s supposed to inspire an entire retail
line, but Gordon Richardson seems to have no problems in doing so. Topman has
the Star Power, drive and creativity to stay in the spotlight while competing on both the
high-end as well high-street for years to come.
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