18/01/2015

Men's A/W 2015 : 1

  The men's Fall collections this year have been stellar. It's been a long time since a season has been so well populated with unique, on-point and beautiful collections in the men's world that I am frankly in awe. A lot of the stuff I was talking about in terms of Pop-Fashion and Androgynous tailoring have been evident in bright coloring and loose tailoring. I've decided not to split these up by location this time around, as I believe the men's collections are less inclined to steer strongly towards their cultural origins (with the exception of Pitti in Milan, which is always decidedly Italian). So without further ado, here is the first batch of my favorite men's runway collections for fall 2015:

  As you could have witnessed in my post on the Moschino Barbie collection, I’m a huge kid at heart. So, it’s no surprise that the Toys R’ Us, Lego inspired collection of this London duo was one of my favorites at LCM. The coats in particular were absolutely amazing in primary color blocks bringing to mind the build-a-blocks we all used to play with as kids. There was even something Mondrian-like in the color usage and straight minimalist silhouettes. Tailoring was majorly loose in the trousers, which is something we’ll definitely be seeing a lot of during Fall. I’m gagging (in the colloquial sense of being positively overwhelmed) and googling how to make Lego masks as we speak!

  Burberry definitely took a turn for the dark and mysterious this season, and in my opinion it’s been long overdue. The boho looks that came down the runway evoked a British Poet who’d just come back from a trip to Southern Africa. As a person who lives in Britain, and is from Southern Africa; and I’m not saying I, specifically, inspired the collection, but I’ll leave that in the hands of you lovely readers. Jokes aside, print matching is a trend that is becoming more and more evident in menswear, and Bailey has it down to an art. Using primary colours like red and blue he’s stuck to his strengths but pushed himself in a darker and more luxurious direction, befitting the Burberry brand. It seems like he’s perfectly sat upon his CEO throne with many more surprises in store.

  This is Derelicte done right (Zoolander reference; watch the movie NOW if you haven’t please). Consequently, the collection is a political statement done right (side-eye Chanel), with no huge signs proclaiming the message, but it still being evident as day. Shannon playfully looked at the Poundland persona of today, and putting together pieces taken from here, there and everywhere else in order to put yourself together. Once again, primary colors and loose tailoring were present, as were masks in the shape of actual plastic bags on the Model’s heads. All in all, a strong and creative collection with an even stronger message. 

  Eary completely plays to the OTT, pop-fashion wearing Serbian side of me. Her collection inspired by modern artists such as Koons and KAWS explodes with color to the point of almost making my brain hurt. Speaking of brains, can we talk about the brain hats? Made via 3D printing, the skull embroidered hats and sweaters may have seemed Eerie to some (I had to), but in my opinion they were mind-blowingly cool. The surgical theme was evident not only in the exposed skeletons on the clothing, but even in the stitched jeans. This paired with the quasi-candy skull makeup really showed that Eary took her subject and ran with it, not taking any prisoners. 

  Finally, the first collection of the season! As you’ve probably noticed if you read the “what I’m wearing” at the bottom of each of my outfit posts, I wear a LOT of Topman. Why? They’re simply the most unique high street retailer. It comes as no surprise then, that this collection was also quite unique in its design. Mixing Americana, Bombay and British boy band references, the collection stood out as different and well put together. It’s difficult to make a collection that’s supposed to inspire an entire retail line, but Gordon Richardson seems to have no problems in doing so. Topman has the Star Power, drive and creativity to stay in the spotlight while competing on both the high-end as well high-street for years to come.

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