21/01/2015

Men's A/W 2015 : 2



  Kane has always had an eye for geometry, and never has it been so cool and calculated as in his fall 2015 menswear collection. With prints that would make a calculator blush, and silhouettes so sharp they could cut diamond, this collection is an evolution in minimalism. The mixing of prints seems effortless and almost perfect, with the trouser cuts just above the ankle preserving a line so clean it could have been measured out by a ruler. However, don’t let the clean cut fabric deceive you, the man in Kane is not one to play by the rules, he defies the nonplussed ease of today and goes that extra mile to look different. In my book, that’s something to strive for. 

  The reviews were not amazing for the Costume National collection. The brand has become recognized for its defined aesthetic approach, but this collection seemed almost chaotic in nature. Sure, as style.com says the polos over a turtleneck weren’t amazing, but that is the eye of a critic. In my opinion, although the collection as a whole wasn’t mind-blowing, there were a lot of looks that were. The play with masculine elements paired with feminine pieces proved for a lesson in rock androgyny. The sleek slim scarves proved as an antecedent to the bulky almost blanket like ones of today, and to be honest, I wanted one. Who knew a pairing between 50’s screen siren and 70’s rock icon could work so well? In my opinion, Costume National should just continue doing what they’re famous for – breaking the mould for what is normal and tasteful to become unique and outrageous.  

 Uniform-inspired and fall menswear have become synonymous. It’s a dreary show when yet another designer decides that he’s going to reinvent the men’s uniform before snow starts grazing the ground. However, Craig Green took an old idea and made it new. His show was as much a fashion show as it was a performance piece. With several distinct looks made in three distinct colors (manufacturers are going to love it), the designer took uniform and made it almost emotive and fragile. Once again loose trousers were present, as were androgynous shapes. In particular a cut-out sweater open at the sternum (Where Craig says the soul comes out of in cartoons) served almost as a counterpart to the midriff baring womens trend. It’s the kind of clothing a poet would wear in 2050, but like a serious poet, who you actually listen to, not unlike Craig Green himself really.
  Clockwork Orange is one of my favorite films. Not going to lie, it even influenced my university choice partly, as parts of it were filmed in my own lecture hall. As you would imagine then, I loved this collection. Marjan Pejoski usually designs the kind of clothing I like, but paired with one of my favorite references, it killed. Although I’d never wear a bowler hat (not for lack of trying), the punk-tribal aesthetic really spoke to what I think fashion should be: rebellious, creative and flattering. Playing with print, color and patches may seem a bit chaotic, but it all made sense at KTZ. Especially interesting was the mix of houndstooth and tribal markings, really taking the organized chaos theme to a new level. The pathes with the faces of dictators like Lenin could have seemed overboard, but just managed to teeter on the edge between artistic and trashy. All in all, Pejoski is a designer to watch, and here’s hoping you’ll be seeing these pieces on the blog again. 

Till Sunday - Alex

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