Kane has always had an eye for geometry, and never has it
been so cool and calculated as in his fall 2015 menswear collection. With
prints that would make a calculator blush, and silhouettes so sharp they could
cut diamond, this collection is an evolution in minimalism. The mixing of
prints seems effortless and almost perfect, with the trouser cuts just above
the ankle preserving a line so clean it could have been measured out by a
ruler. However, don’t let the clean cut fabric deceive you, the man in Kane is
not one to play by the rules, he defies the nonplussed ease of today and goes
that extra mile to look different. In my book, that’s something to strive for.
The reviews were not amazing for the Costume National
collection. The brand has become recognized for its defined aesthetic approach,
but this collection seemed almost chaotic in nature. Sure, as style.com says
the polos over a turtleneck weren’t amazing, but that is the eye of a critic.
In my opinion, although the collection as a whole wasn’t mind-blowing, there
were a lot of looks that were. The play with masculine elements paired with
feminine pieces proved for a lesson in rock androgyny. The sleek slim scarves
proved as an antecedent to the bulky almost blanket like ones of today, and to
be honest, I wanted one. Who knew a pairing between 50’s screen siren and 70’s
rock icon could work so well? In my opinion, Costume National should just
continue doing what they’re famous for – breaking the mould for what is normal
and tasteful to become unique and outrageous.
Uniform-inspired and fall menswear have become synonymous. It’s
a dreary show when yet another designer decides that he’s going to reinvent the
men’s uniform before snow starts grazing the ground. However, Craig Green took
an old idea and made it new. His show was as much a fashion show as it was a
performance piece. With several distinct looks made in three distinct colors (manufacturers
are going to love it), the designer took uniform and made it almost emotive and
fragile. Once again loose trousers were present, as were androgynous shapes. In
particular a cut-out sweater open at the sternum (Where Craig says the soul
comes out of in cartoons) served almost as a counterpart to the midriff baring womens
trend. It’s the kind of clothing a poet would wear in 2050, but like a serious
poet, who you actually listen to, not unlike Craig Green himself really.
Clockwork Orange is one of my favorite films. Not going to
lie, it even influenced my university choice partly, as parts of it were filmed
in my own lecture hall. As you would imagine then, I loved this collection.
Marjan Pejoski usually designs the kind of clothing I like, but paired with one
of my favorite references, it killed. Although I’d never wear a bowler hat (not
for lack of trying), the punk-tribal aesthetic really spoke to what I think
fashion should be: rebellious, creative and flattering. Playing with print,
color and patches may seem a bit chaotic, but it all made sense at KTZ.
Especially interesting was the mix of houndstooth and tribal markings, really
taking the organized chaos theme to a new level. The pathes with the faces of
dictators like Lenin could have seemed overboard, but just managed to teeter on
the edge between artistic and trashy. All in all, Pejoski is a designer to
watch, and here’s hoping you’ll be seeing these pieces on the blog again.
Till Sunday - Alex
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