25/02/2015

NYFW A/W 2015

  I swear it was only yesterday we were talking about S/S and lo and behold the Autumn/Winter season for 2015 is already here! It’s amazing how designers constantly churn out new collections, each unique, in the space of a few months, and thank god they do because it keeps things interesting for someone with a 9-to-5 (ok, 8-to-6) job like myself. As always we start in New York, and here are my favorite collections. 

  You all witnessed my stanning for Delpozo last season, and I can tell you that this collection has made me fall further in love with the brand. It’s rare nowadays to see brands present shows that are ambiguously both couture and prêt-a-porter, a mindset the lines designer Josep Font seems to be all about. As per usual, the colors integrated into the show were bright and crisp, inspired by the work of Rhys Lee. The cut was also sharp, and served as an illusion of different body shapes, rather than following a classic silhouette. What was new to this collection was a dark softness, mostly seen in the embellishment and use of chiffon. Particularly spectacular was a pail blue jumper, woven in such a way that it seemed flowers were erupting from the knit. The only mishaps, in my opinion, were the two final looks, which lacked the cool and collected vibe of Delpozo, but sort of seemed to weigh down the models. Nonetheless, Font remains one of my favorite designers, and I can only hope we shall see him in couture as well at some point in the future.

  Jason Wu is one of the few designers I can actually remember making it into the big leagues. With the Wintour stamp-of-approval and Obama wardrobe access he quickly shot to the top of the fashion elite, and has stayed there ever since. What was interesting about this collection is that Wu seemed to abandon his usual glamour for a more refined sophistication. A very intellectual and pared-down color palette assisted him in showing off the choices of fabric and silhouette. The merger between minimalist and exuberant served Wu well with precise trims accented with luscious fur. If that sounds a bit like a chocolate syrup commercial, it’s a good thing, because if anything this collection was rich. 

  I’m going to admit a major faux pas here; I’ve never really been a fan of Michael Kors. Don’t get me wrong, the man is a living legend, but the All-American brand thing has never really done it for me, it seems a bit too played out and dull. Over and over, Kors seems to churn out modern Daisy Buchanan’s, in a never-ending circle of autumnal colors. But, this show was something special. Fur has been everywhere this season, but none executed it quite like Kors in his sleeve accents and navy shades. Particularly interesting where the exaggerated white collars protruding from cashmere (I’m assuming its cashmere) jumpers. In general the oversized aesthetic works quite well for Michael, so here’s hoping for a lot more of it in coming shows. A/W lends itself well to the designer, obvious in the glam but cool clothing. Kors may march to the drum of the consumer of today, but is that always a bad thing? I mean, what is fashion if it doesn’t sell well? And today Mr. Kors, I’m sold. 

  The complete opposite of Kors, Hernandez and McCollough design their clothes with a story in mind rather than a store. Drawing from a clash of Abstract art and 1940’s glamour, Proenza exhibited a collection many other brands would never have the guts to, and there experiment seems to have succeeded. Geometric cutouts contrasted flowing silhouettes and fur fringes. The girl they had in mind was a mix between warrior princess and Vegas showgirl, but somehow it seemed to work. To some this collection is as difficult to understand as the pronounciation of the brands own name (Pro-end-za S-koo-ler), but to some it was perfectly out-there, creative and rebellious. The show was polarizing to say the least, but it had me flushed red and excited for their future work. 

- Till London, Alex

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